Uriel Jamieson
OCTOBER 9 2024 marks a significant date in the life of St Patrick’s in the Cowgate area of Edinburgh (above) because it will celebrate its 250th anniversary as a Christian Church. It is a highly significant building in Edinburgh’s Old Town, and as well as being a place of worship for locals and visitors it is also known as an oasis of peace for the soul in a busy city centre.
It wasn’t always a Catholic Church though. When the ‘square style’ church opened in 1774, it was Episcopalian and known as St Paul’s Chapel. The great and the good of the day worshipped here with a congregation of more than 1000. It had a tower and a bell to call the faithful. The writer and diarist James Boswell amazed at the edifice that rose in the Cowgate said: “It was striking to see so grand a place of worship in Edinburgh.” The congregation commissioned several religious art works by the Scottish artist, Alexander Runciman, one of the most distinguished painters of the day, to decorate the apse.
It was a fashionable place to worship, but eventually many of the well-to-do congregation started to move into the plusher New Town of the city and in 1818, it was sold to a Presbyterian Congregation, the Scottish Relief Church. They made changes to the interior overpainting the mural of the Ascension on the ceiling of the apse—the Runciman Trust has been established to oversee the restoration of the mural as funds become available—and replaced the altar with a pulpit. The next few years were an unsettled period. Factions emerged and they ran into financial difficulties. When the congregation decided to move out of the church they agreed to sell their redundant building to the Catholic Church.
Catholic chapter
At that time, Bishop James Gillis knew he had to do something to meet the spiritual needs for the growing number of Irish immigrants who had arrived in Edinburgh to escape An Gorta Mór (The Great Hunger). The Catholic population had risen from 1000 to 14000 and the old St Patrick’s in Lothian Street had become inadequate for the many who had settled in the insanitary and disease-ridden slum area of the Cowgate. The new church cost £4300. Half was paid for by the Church, the rest by the people. They may have lived in poverty, but were determined to raise money for a church of their own.
The new church—dedicated to St Patrick—was officially opened on Sunday August 3, 1856. The congregation present that momentous day for the opening Mass was estimated at 2600.
It became a vibrant parish. At its busiest there were more than 600 Baptisms a year. Many societies were introduced. The parish has the honour of being the first St Vincent de Paul Society in Scotland. The church became a hub for those living in Edinburgh who were enduring much bigotry and alienation from the local community. Many met their future husbands and wives there. It was a great place for socialising! The Cowgate became known as ‘Little Ireland’ and still is to this day.
Over the next years, many changes were made to the church. In 1898 a new sanctuary was built, extending outwards from the north wall, and a high altar installed. In 1921, the mortuary chapel was erected as a memorial to the 320 men of the parish who had fallen in the Great War. In 1924, a new Lady Chapel was built and the following year a chapel dedicated to the Sacred Heart. In 1929, a façade was added incorporating the statues of St Patrick and St Brigid in niches above the entrance. An impressive terrace and steps completed the design of the church and gave it the appearance we know today.
A rich history
St Patrick’s also became part of history in another way. One of the priests, Canon Edward Hannan—a Limerick-born Priest—worked tirelessly for the souls under his care and was committed to the youth of the parish encouraging education and good living. In 1869, he introduced the Catholic Young Men’s Society (CYMS). It was from their meeting place in the nearby St Mary’s Halls that he, and a young Irish Parishioner, Michael Whelahan, suggested forming a football team to promote the physical wellbeing of these young men. Players had to be practising Catholics and members of the CYMS. And so Hibernian Football Club, with the Harp as its crest, was founded on August 6, 1875, joining the Edinburgh Football Association in 1876 and the Scottish Football Association not long afterwards They found a permanent home at Hibernian Park on Easter Road in 1880 and went on to win the Scottish Cup in 1888.
Sadly, in the spring of 1891, Canon Hannan succumbed to flu, which turned into pneumonia and he died on 26 June. His funeral took place two days later, attended by a who’s who of the Catholic Church in Scotland, but also by many in public life who were not of his faith, amongst them MPs, city councillors, members of the School Board and the City Parochial Board. The procession to the Grange Cemetery is said to have comprised 2000 mourners. A bust of him can be found at Hibernian’s Easter Road Stadium and a memorial to him is kept in the entrance of St Patrick’s.
A people’s history
Many fine people have passed through the great doors of the Church, good living people who strive to support the church in many ways as well as those who have made their mark not just in Edinburgh but across the world.
It was in St Patrick’s that James Connolly—born of Irish parents—was Baptised, Leaving St Patrick’s School at aged 10 he joined the British Army, which he came to despise. He left for Ireland, became involved in politics, formed the Irish Labour Party and became a commander in the Irish Citizen Army. For his part in the Easter Rising, he was court marshalled and was executed by firing squad on May 12, 1916.
St Patrick’s is also fortunate to have one of its former parishioners on the road to being declared a saint. The Venerable Margaret Sinclair was taught and received her Sacraments in the Church. Her remains lie in the Sacred Heart Altar and many thousands of pilgrims bring their petitions and prayers to her. The annual Margaret Sinclair Pilgrimage takes place this year on September 22.
Celebrating the church
Fr Gerard Hatton—administrator of the church—is very proud of the Church’s long history.
“It is truly extraordinary to be able to look back at the rich history of this historic building famed not only for its architecture, but for the Runciman murals and the important people who have passed through the great front doors such as the Venerable Margaret Sinclair,” he said. “We are really looking forward to October 9 and are so pleased to be able to welcome back the other denominations who have also played a part in the life of the Church. It is so important to give thanks to God and celebrate such an occasion. We will have Vespers and Archbishop Leo Cushley will give the homily then move to St Cecilia’s Hall for a couple of presentations and music.
“The celebration is as much about acknowledging where we are now, planning for our future as well as reflecting on the past. The church holds a very special place in the affections of Catholics both in the city and beyond. Many clergy have served the parish over the years and many people still regard St Patrick’s as their spiritual home.
“Fr Ninian and I arrived here a year ago at the invitation of the archbishop to work on the Edinburgh Oratory Project. We are at the early stages of formation, but we hope that St Patrick’s may in time be formally instituted as an Oratorian Congregation.
“250 years on we do look to the future with hope. The world has changed greatly, but there is still a need for this church, which offers a place of sanctuary, a place for young people and it is home for the people who have been connected with the Church for many, many years. Like many churches, however, we face ongoing struggle to keep on top of repairs and restoration. That was why on June 22, at Canon Hannan’s Memorial Mass, we had to launch a building fund appeal. People have responded very generously, but we need more to contribute so that this beautiful church will be here in another 250 years. Anyone wishing to donate can do so through our bank account details which are on our website.”
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